For over fifty years, Kobe Steakhouse has been wowing guests in downtown Vancouver with their tableside teppanyaki-hibachi style service.
Hibachi That Feels Like Home
The atmosphere on a Friday night is electric. You might hear a neighbouring table singing “Happy Birthday” over the clatter of metal utensils on the grill. The usual social boundaries that exist between parties at restaurants are immediately broken down by the theatrics. And, I applaud the chefs because cooking “on stage” like this is a challenge in and of itself. Yet, the Kobe chefs are not only able to chat with guests while they cook, but also charm them. Some people have a favourite bartender, while regulars at Kobe have a favourite teppanyaki chef.
Kobe is one of Vancouver’s oldest restaurants. Its roots go back to 1968 when owner Michael Bruser decided to introduce Vancouver to Japan with a dining experience inspired by rural Japanese country inns and roadside eateries. In fact, Kobe opened only a few years after the first North American Benihana opened in 1964. With an entertaining performance built into the service and a menu mild enough for Canadians unfamiliar with Japanese food (yet still exotic enough to be exciting), it’s no wonder that Kobe was a hit.
Tried & Tested Tastes of Nostalgia
All dinners, as the Kobe menu informs guests, include the Teppan Shrimp Appetiser, small Shabu Shabu soup, seasonal vegetables, rice, and Japanese green tea. Kobe also serves some fun cocktails like an appropriately retro Mai Tai. There’s also a Matcha Moonlight martini, Japanese Gin & Juice, and a Sake Colada. Credit for the cocktail menu goes to Bar Manager Eddie O’Reilly.
You choose your own adventure at Kobe when it comes to mains. There’s Filet Mignon, Teriyaki Chicken, Teppan Shrimp, or Miyazaki Wagyu. You can also mix and match. For example, The Ultimate comes with New York steak, Teriyaki Chicken, as well as brandy and sake sautéed Lobster Tail and broiled Atlantic Scallops.
In the 1980s, Michael’s son Brian Bruser took the reins of the restaurant, and now his son Dylan Bruser is in charge. While the Japanese food scene in Vancouver has changed greatly since Kobe first opened in the 1960s, the steakhouse has remained very much the same. The menu hasn’t changed substantially in forty years, which is appreciated by Kobe’s returning customers. The menu is admittedly simple, but that doesn’t mean it’s not delicious. Between the recent popularity of home cooks using Blackstone Griddles and how tasty the Giant Tiger Prawns are, I’m currently debating if I could squeeze a grill into my apartment kitchen.
History, Continuity, and Legacy at Kobe
When I chatted with Dylan, the current Bruser in charge at Kobe, I was surprised to learn that some guests visit more often than I had expected. I assumed an annual visit would be the norm, but he told me, “Some people come once a month or bi-monthly.” Part of the reason why guests come back so often is that they form a relationship with a particular chef. “They’ll have a favourite chef,” Dylan explains, “and they become part of the family.”
Kobe has an innately celebratory atmosphere. Therefore, it’s understandable that it is a place where families gather year after year to celebrate milestones. Their customer base is now as multi-generational as the ownership. Dylan reflects that he will recognise customers who visit and “their dad came in back when my dad was in the restaurant.” This continuity is important and meaningful. These spaces in Vancouver have histories that deserve to be preserved.
“We’re so grateful to the thousands of guests who have helped us become a staple of this city’s amazing culinary scene,” says Dylan. “We look forward to continuing to showcase what has made us an institution for locals and visitors alike since my grandfather opened the doors more than five decades ago.”
Lounge Launches New Menu
While the Kobe menu stays consistent, their downstairs lounge has just introduced a new nightly Izakaya Menu. Conceived by Dylan, the menu is available exclusively in the Lounge weekdays from 5 to 10:30 pm and weekends from 4:30 to 11:30 pm. You’ll find small sharing dishes like Chicken Karaage and Edamame as well as sushi rolls. Kobe hasn’t served appetisers in their lounge since before Covid, so this delicious development offers guests a way of extending their experience. Stop in before your reservation for a drink and a snack as you wait for your party to arrive. Or, linger after dinner and keep the party going in the lounge. The place has a nostalgic allure, and once you visit, you’ll understand why Kobe has lasted this long.
