Season to Taste: Chef Jason Kleinfeld of Cardero’s

Boasting breathtaking views of the marina as well as the North Shore mountains, Cardero’s is the spot for a special celebration or romantic waterfront date night. The guiding force in Cardero’s kitchen is Executive Chef Jason Kleinfeld, who is inspired daily by Vancouver’s fresh, high-quality seafood and produce. The menu is otherwise shaped by cooking technique because Cardero’s has a wood-fired grill. Their cedar-planked salmon is a signature dish, and all their steaks come with their iconic roasted parmesan tomato. We talked with Chef Kleinfeld to learn more about what BC ingredient he can’t live without, where he loves to wander Granville Island, and why he sees mentorship as a key part of his culinary legacy.

Chef Jason Kleinfeld

What first inspired you to become a chef, and how has your journey led you to Vancouver?

Growing up in the aftermath of my parents’ divorce and moving to a new city, my mom had to work two jobs, which meant my brother and I had to learn to cook for ourselves. I discovered right away that I really enjoyed it. I also have to admit that, like many kids of my generation, I thought Jack Tripper from Three’s Company was pretty cool. He was a chef on TV, after all! My interest in cooking was reinforced in high school, where I excelled in my cooking class and even received a reference letter from my teacher that helped me land my first cooking job at the Boathouse Restaurant.

Who were some of your biggest influences, either chefs or family, in shaping your approach to cooking?

My mother has always been a huge influence; her food was not only delicious but full of what I now recognize as complex flavours. I was also inspired by Jamie Oliver’s The Naked Chef. I loved his unconventional, free-spirited approach to cooking. At the same time, I admired the structure and precision of Julia Child’s programs, which helped me appreciate technique and classic approaches.

What’s the story behind your restaurant — how did it come to life?

Cardero’s is a natural evolution for Brent Davies and the Sequoia Company of Restaurants, as the company established itself as a leader in the local food scene. The concept combines waterfront dining with a focus on local ingredients, fresh fish, and perfectly char-grilled meats.

How does the food culture of Vancouver influence your cooking style or menu choices?

Vancouver’s easy access to fresh, seasonal ingredients has a huge impact on my cooking. I love working with fresh fish, meat, produce, and baked goods, all of which are readily available here. The city’s multicultural makeup also inspires me to experiment with different cuisines and ingredients I may not have encountered otherwise.

What’s one local ingredient you can’t live without in your kitchen?

I can’t live without the hand-harvested flaked sea salt from the Vancouver Island Sea Salt Company. I use it to finish almost everything I cook.

If someone was visiting Vancouver for the first time, what food experience would you insist they try?

I would recommend wandering through Granville Island Public Market—spending an afternoon there is one of the best ways to experience the city. Afterwards, a visit to Hoshi’s sushi bar at Sandbar Seafood Restaurant, just next door to the market, is a must. It’s truly legendary.

What restaurants, cafés, or hidden gems in Vancouver do you personally love to eat at when you’re off-duty?

I try to check out new restaurants and trends as they open. It’s a way to see what other chefs are creating and support local small businesses. Lately, I’ve been enjoying Tavola, which is close to Cardero’s. It’s been around for a while, but continues to serve the juiciest brick chicken.

How do you think the dining scene in Vancouver is different from other Canadian cities?

Being a port city gives us direct access to the ocean and freshwater, which is a huge advantage. Our temperate rainforest climate also creates lush growing conditions, producing incredible mushrooms and other local ingredients.

Where do you like to shop for ingredients locally — farmers’ markets, specialty shops, or a particular supplier?

For seafood and produce, Granville Island is my go-to. I also love Oyama for charcuterie, cheese, pâté, and sausage. Bosa Foods, Colombia Meats, and Cioffi are other suppliers I rely on regularly.

Beyond food, what makes Vancouver special to you as a place to live and work?

Vancouver’s proximity to everything makes it a unique place to live. You can ski at Cypress Bowl in the morning and kite surf in the ocean or mountain bike in the Endowment Lands in the afternoon. Wineries in the Fraser Valley are just an hour away, and if you’re looking for something different, you can even catch a rodeo in Cloverdale or go whale watching off Steveston. We really are spoiled here.

What’s next for you and your restaurant here?

We aim to continue growing the business while maintaining a focus on hospitality and creating memorable experiences for our guests. We are committed to delivering consistently excellent food and service. A key part of my legacy will be the young, ambitious cooks I’ve mentored and watched develop into talented chefs. Knowing that my passion inspires the next generation gives me immense pride. This is what I plan to do until I lay down my professional knives, though I will never stop cooking—I literally can’t.

 

About Bronwyn Lewis 224 Articles
Bronwyn Lewis is a food writer for the Vancouver Guardian. She’s also a screenwriter and producer. Born and raised in Vancouver, Bronwyn lives in Mount Pleasant and you can follow all her food adventures on Instagram.