Since Chef Francisco Higareda moved to Vancouver in 2016, the Mexican food scene here has changed a lot. Diversity is greater, and more regional options are available. Higareda, in his current role as Executive Chef at Ophelia, Barra Gitano, and Monarca Cocina Mexicana, is due partial credit for that shift.
When he first arrived in Vancouver, he cut his teeth at The Flying Pig and WildTale, which is how he came to meet his current business partners. Then, he opened Ophelia in Olympic Village.
Higareda Shares His Heritage
Named for his mother, Ophelia is a celebration of Higareda’s culinary roots as well as his Spanish and Mexican heritage. Mexican cuisine has a rich history, as deep and layered as a well-made mole. Here in Vancouver, the representation is getting better, more authentic and more diverse. Higareda is well-versed in Mexico’s culinary history as he previously worked as a culinary teacher in his home country.
Ophelia was Higareda’s first venture. Now, he has added Barra Gitano and the more late-night Monarca to his plate. In his capacity as Executive Chef at all three restaurants, he guides and mentors his teams, encouraging contributions from his chefs while maintaining the consistency of each of the three distinct concepts.
Sibling Resemblance of Sister Restaurants
While Ophelia is elevated, Barra Gitano is more casual. Located right in the heart of Vancouver’s West End, they have a bopping patio and one of the city’s best Happy Hour menus. All the cocktails come in under $10, and the chips and excellent guacamole are only $7.75. The layered Enchiladas are a cross-over menu item that is also served at Monarca and the lasagna-style construction is genius.
Just as Higareda’s culinary vision guides the menu design of all three restaurants, a common aesthetic ties each location to its sister. While the design of each is distinct, they all feel connected through elements of the interior.
Monarca is the most intricate, which is saying a lot considering Gitano contains a life-size tree. The interior of Monarca — with foliage festooned ceiling, hanging lanterns, and changing coloured lights — allows it to shift with ease from stylish dinner spot to late night party. Another example of shared design details, besides the plant-life, are the candles dripping with many many evenings’ of melted wax. These candles are a signature design feature of Ophelia. They can even be glimpsed from the sidewalk outside in Olympic Village. A veritable tower of candles and melted wax also lights Monarca’s sexy velvet booths.
Marvellous Moles of Mexico
The complex flavours of Mexican mole are hard to explain. In general, a mole is a marvellous mix of savoury spices with the bitter sweetness of cocoa. That being said, there can be significant regional differences.
Even disregarding regional diversity, a mole will also always reflect the personal choices and whims of each cook. It is a deeply personal dish.
It is significant that Higareda shares multiple moles across the menus of all his restaurants. That Ophelia serves not one but three distinct moles tells customers that this is not a uniform, universal sauce. Moreover, Higareda gives his guests the chance to taste a selection.
At Ophelia, you can get the half-roasted chicken with the mole de la casa, or the pork belly with mole verde, or, and this is one of the most beloved dishes on the menu, the pulpo or octopus with mole blanco. This octopus dish is one of the shining stars on Ophelia’s menu. In fact, it was specifically noted by the Michelin Guide in their write up recommending the restaurant.
There’s also mole at Monarca. The Recado Negro Battered Half Chicken comes with a mole de Xico, which is unique to Higareda’s childhood home of Veracruz. Another mole on the menu at Monarca that shouldn’t be missed is the coffee and cherry mole that accompanies the slow-cooked, bone-in, beef Short Rib.
The chicken mole at Monarca also includes a very special Mexican ingredient: huitlacoche. Described on Monarca’s menu as “Corn Truffle,” huitlacoche is also known (admittedly a little less appetizingly) as edible corn fungus. In Mexico, it is considered a delicacy, and it adds a sweetly, earthy flavour.
Restaurant #4 for Higareda?
As a born and raised Vancouverite, I grew up eating “Mexican” food that mostly consisted of cheese and sour cream. So, I’m so grateful that I can now sample celebrated regional ingredients like huitlacoche at restaurants here.
Not content with three establishments to run, Higareda’s next goal, when he can find the time, is to apply his fine-dining background to an elevated fine-dining Mexican restaurant. He also plans to keep pushing the palettes of Vancouver diners, introducing us to more regional specialties, taking our taste buds on a trip, and allowing us to taste the differences of distinct regions.
