Chef Gabriella Meyer is a friendly, familiar face behind the counter at Harvest Community Foods. She initially came on board when Chef/Owner Andrea Carlson found her hands full with Burdock & Co. Meyer stepped in, initially just running operations while serving Carlson’s original recipes, but now Meyer directs the menu at Harvest. She is inspired by the seasonal produce that Heritage also sells in the form of CSAs, and she also benefits from leftovers or off-cuts from Burdock’s Michelin-starred kitchen as well. We spoke with Meyer to learn more about her cooking philosophy, sake kazu, and cheesy onigiri.
What first inspired you to become a chef, and how has your journey led you to Vancouver?
I’ve always loved food, eating it, cooking it, reading about it… I would get so excited as a kid when the new Bon Appetite or Gourmet magazine would arrive. I would read it cover to cover, imagining all the dishes I could make. I ended up at the Stratford Chefs School in the early 2000s. While I loved my time there, I knew Vancouver was where I wanted to be.
Who were some of your biggest influences, either chefs or family, in shaping your approach to cooking?
During School “farm to table” was becoming the new way of dining. We studied Alice Waters and John Bishop, and it was my dream to work in either restaurant. While I would later work at Bishops, I was lucky enough to be hired right out of chef’s school by Rob Clark, who was the executive chef of C Restaurant at the time. He, along with Rob Belcham and later Andrea Carlson, all helped shape my approach to food and cooking.
What’s the story behind your restaurant — how did it come to life?
Harvest Community Foods was born in 2012 as a community project called This Space. A poll went out to the community of what they would like to see in the space. Voters chose a local-food grocery and named it Harvest Community Foods. Andrea Carlson, who was hired on to consult on the space, soon purchased the business and added the noodle menu. She also started a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program, offering a weekly bag of local, seasonal, and organic produce.
How does the food culture of Vancouver influence your cooking style or menu choices?
We are very committed to using local ingredients as much as possible. Food security is very important to me and all of us at Harvest. Working with Andrea the past 20 years, I was introduced to farmers that we still have relationships with today. I feel so lucky to be able to work with the produce that we have available to us in Vancouver. While we do have a core five noodle dishes that make up our regular menu, I am able to run daily specials that are dictated by what is available on the fresh sheets that week.
What’s one local ingredient you can’t live without in your kitchen?
Definitely Sake Kazu. We get it from Masa, Artisan Sake Maker on Granville Island. Sake kasu, the natural by-product of sake production, is a paste packed with a unique umami flavour. Our kazu ramen broth is definitely a favourite on the special sheet!
If someone was visiting Vancouver for the first time, what food experience would you insist they try?
Dimsum, so much amazing Dimsum.
What restaurants, cafés, or hidden gems in Vancouver do you personally love to eat at when you’re off-duty?
So many great spots in the city, but some favs for a chill day off are Say Hey Cafe, love love all the sandwiches, but during the holidays their hot turkey sandwich is perfection. Dosanko for cheesy onigiris, OKU for late-night snacks, Treasure Garden for iced tea, and, when I’m craving comfort pizza, Sunrise is my go-to.
Where do you like to shop for ingredients locally — farmers’ markets, specialty shops, or a particular supplier?
I honestly think Harvest is one of the best spots to shop for local ingredients. I do also love to go to Granville Island for some things, like Oyama. Two Rivers in North Van for meats, and for sure the farmers’ markets.
Beyond food, what makes Vancouver special to you as a place to live and work?
I was born and raised here, so Vancouver will always have a special place in my heart. I’m a water baby, so I need to be near the ocean, and when it’s a beautiful day, and I get to the beach, or a walk along the sea wall, it can be magical.
What’s next for you and your restaurant here?
That’s a good question! When I figure it out, I’ll let you know, hahahah.
