Like the moon, the menu at Burdock & Co goes through a cyclical transformation. Six times a year, the menu changes, following the lunar calendar and reflecting shifts between micro-seasons.
Building Burdock
The lunar influence is so strong that each menu is poetically named after a different moon. Submerging Stones Under A Sturgeon Moon ran from August until the end of September and was recently replaced by Radiant Radicchios under a Frost Moon.
Another recent development at Burdock & Co is that, as of the October 2nd Michelin Awards Ceremony, the Mount Pleasant restaurant maintains their Michelin star. Notably, Burdock & Co is the only Michelin-starred restaurant, not just in Vancouver but in the country, owned and operated by a female chef.
Andrea Carlson hunted for the perfect space for Burdock & Co and found it on Main Street. Rustically elegant, with minimalist decor, the dining room seats a cozy 32. The open kitchen offers a glimpse at how the delicate dishes are constructed. Plus, guests can see how calmly and diligently the culinary team works together, in concert with the front of house staff, to orchestrate their multi-course dining experience.
From Farm to Table
Plants, not proteins, guide the composition of individual dishes at Burdock. Carlson matured as a chef in kitchens that championed farm to table sourcing. At Sooke Harbour House, the farm was mere steps away from the table. She has always worked closely with farmers and takes inspiration from what is available locally and seasonally.
At summer’s peak, I had the opportunity to tour Sole Food Street Farms with Carlson. The bounty of summer is inspiring, yet the cooler months bring their own special ingredients as well.
“We have a very temperate climate with a growing season that is incredibly long compared to the rest of the country,” Carlson explains gratefully. “It’s exciting.”
As the temperatures cool and the summer wanes, Carlson and her team adjust and adapt. The impressive beauty of individual dishes and the thoughtfulness behind their construction remains. However, annually, the team is pushed to innovate. I wrongly assumed that this shift would be a struggle, but Burdock relishes the opportunity to do something different.
“It’s a good challenge and we like challenges,” Carlson shares when asked about crafting a menu around one of the most bitter and hardy vegetables.
Radiant Radicchios under a Frost Moon
Radicchio may not be everyone’s favourite vegetable. This is an example of the good work being done by the team at Burdock. Their seasonal tasting menu offers the chance to taste lesser known or enjoyed ingredients in unexpected and delicious ways.
For example, Burdock’s current Frost Moon menu features radicchio in every single one of the seven courses, including dessert.
“Getting radicchio into dessert is tricky, but I feel really comfortable and happy with what we’ve done,” Carlson says.
You’ve probably never had plum kernel hazelnut cake with radicchio jam, ricotta gelato, and radicchio and stone fruit leather before, but that doesn’t mean you won’t like it.
Radiant Radicchios under a Frost Moon runs from now until the first week of December. And, on November 18, Burdock & Co will celebrate the leafy chicory with their annual Radicchio Festival.
Glorious Friends Who Farm
“I have to thank my dear friends at Glorious Organics, whom I’ve worked with for over 30 years, for giving me the palette to paint this radicchio portrait,” says Carlson. “When they told me they were growing more than 40 varieties, I instantly knew I had to create a menu around these bittersweet parameters.”
Glorious Organics is a cooperatively owned and operated farming collective in Aldergrove, BC. In operation since 1986, it was one of the first farms in the Fraser Valley to be certified organic.
The cyclical nature of the seasonal menu at Burdock & Co allows for the revisiting of favourites, with variation, of course. The team gets the chance to make each new iteration better than the one before.
The hyper-seasonal menu at Burdock & Co is available as a prix fixe dining experience, so reservations are recommended. However, you can also walk in and grab a seat at the bar. They have a wonderful wine selection as well as creative cocktails (with or without alcohol) and a few a la carte menu items.
From Bar Snacks to Top Chef Canada Specials
Try the Buttermilk Fried Chicken or Savoury Éclairs. The flavours of these also change seasonally, but currently, Burdock has a dill pickle version of the fried chicken that shouldn’t be missed. Another fun option is to sample the work of Sous Chef Katy Cheung. She is currently competing on the latest season of Top Chef Canada on Flavour Network, and Burdock will feature a weekly Top Chef special that you can add on to your prix fixe meal or sample at the bar.
The playfulness at Burdock & Co is palpable. They coax and tempt their guests to try things they never have. This takes culinary confidence. At the same time, this confidence is tempered by the lightheartedness of their approach. The food is impeccable, yet still sparks joy.
