The dining room at CinCin has seen many celebrations over the last twenty-five years. When I stopped by before service to interview Chef Andrew Richardson, there was a palpable sense of anticipation as the team prepared. I’m grateful that Richardson could make time to chat. After all, he serves as Executive Chef at CinCin as well as the award winning steak restaurant, Elisa.
A Vancouver Institution
CinCin has been serving up sumptuous Italian meals since 1990. As you ascend the iconic winding staircase leading up from Robson Street, you’re transported to Tuscany. The architect behind CinCin was the late Werner Forster, who also worked on other Toptable establishments like Blue Water, and is credited for Umberto Menghi’s Italian oasis, Il Giardino.
Richardson’s position at CinCin has provided him with the opportunity to guide future generations. The dynamics in a kitchen are ever changing: “You have to work with and manage different personalities. Some people are just working a job and others are what you would consider professionals,” Richardson points out. Regardless, each person is essential and must appreciate the importance of their role in the collaborative culinary performance. A few notable alums from CinCin include Chef Andrea Aldridge who just opened Janevca in Victoria, as well as Chef Deseree “Dez” Lo, and Chef Ying Ying Gao, now Executive Chef at another longstanding Toptable establishment, Araxi.
Richardson’s Rich Culinary Past
Richardson’s own culinary mentor was Chef Terry Laybourne of Newcastle’s Michelin-starred 21 Queen Street. “It’s important early in your career to work for someone committed,” Richardson explains. Originally from Newcastle, Richardson attended culinary school in Manchester before returning to work for Laybourne. Then, in 1999, he decided to relocate to the West Coast. He says the move was decided by “lifestyle and landscape.” Once in Vancouver, while working at Le Crocodile, he met Chef Giuseppe (Pino) Posteraro who was just about to open his eponymous restaurant in Yaletown. Richardson joined Cioppino’s as Executive Sous Chef.
Before taking over CinCin in 2015, and later Elisa, Richardson honed his culinary skills around the world including at the French Laundry where he staged for six weeks. When I asked about the atmosphere, especially given the attention drawn to Chef Thomas Keller by the most recent season of The Bear, Richardson acknowledged a recent positive shift in kitchens. He also noted, “Sometimes pressure brings elevated performance.” He explained that while there was a sense of edge in the kitchen at the French Laundry, there was an “impression of calm” even though everyone had “to be performing at the highest level.”
The recent change in attitude may go hand-in-hand with a shift in menu design. “Noma changed kitchens a lot,” Richardson explains, referencing the three-Michelin-star Danish restaurant that will close at the end of 2024. Richardson partly credits Noma for the rise in popularity of tasting menus, as well as the focus on locally foraged produce. Now, there is less emphasis on the French culinary tradition, with its labour-intensive stock and sauce work. This may be responsible for lifting some of the pressure in kitchens.
Sourcing the Exceptional
Understandably, there will always be pressure when cooking professionally but one of Richardson’s great joys in working for Toptable is being afforded the freedom to seek out luxury ingredients. A primary example would be CinCin’s annual truffle dinner which features exquisite Burgundy and White Alba Truffles. Another would be the curated collection of premium proteins at Elisa Steak.
Another such luxury is the Grillworks Infierno Grill. Both CinCin and Elisa boast these wood-burning grills, with CinCin being the first restaurant in Canada to have one. Originally, when Richardson came aboard, CinCin had an antique wood-fired grill but it needed repairs and it was a struggle to find a capable stonemason. After extensive research, Richardson suggested the Infierno. It was such a success at CinCin that when Elisa opened, they needed one of their own. “Cooking on fire is exciting and challenging,” Richardson shares, “because it is different every single day, depending on the wood as well as the local weather.” To complement the grill, Elisa sources and dry ages some of the best beef available.
Indulge at Home
The Elisa team experimented with dry ageing, developing a program which led to the opening of the beautiful butcher shop next door to Elisa: Luigi & Sons. Bringing together all of Richardson’s influences, Luigi & Sons now not only stocks the same dry-aged beef Elisa serves, but customers can also take CinCin pasta dishes home. From the fine-dining heights of the best of Toptable’s establishments, to easy heat-and-eat meals, Richardson makes luxury enjoyable and accessible.
