Acclaimed Vancouver restaurant St Lawrence is celebrating their eighth anniversary with a special Table Champêtre menu. Inspired by the tradition in Quebec of dining out on the farm, this plant-forward menu celebrates the summer bounty of BC while staying rooted in Chef/Owner J-C Poirier’s Québécois heritage.
Savouring Summer at St Lawrence
For the month of August, guests can enjoy the four course Table Champêtre tasting menu. St Lawrence has opted for a prix fixe style service since the pandemic. It is a style that allows for maximum control on the part of the kitchen, resulting in a meal that intentionally progresses from one course to the next. It is also a format famously favoured by the good (and anonymous) folks at Michelin — the same folks who awarded St Lawrence one Michelin star. Poirier and his team first received their star in 2022 and have maintained it since.
The rustic and hearty Québécois inspiration at St Lawrence is tempered by the fastidiousness and elegance of French technique. While comforting and rich winter meals might immediately come to mind with the mention of Québécois cuisine, the Table Champêtre menu offers light summer flavours. It is an ode to local farms and farmers. One such farmer is Mark Cormier of Glorious Organics, who was the special guest at the media preview. The co-op of which he is a part grew many of the raw ingredients used.
Restrained, Elegant, and Plant-Forward
The Pain Provençal, which opened the meal, was a showcase of simplicity. The vegetables used — carrot, turnip, cucumber, fennel, and potato — were left to shine almost entirely on their own. Served raw, blanched, or simply boiled and dressed with olive oil and salt, the only additional flavour came from the sauces: an expertly made and delicious aioli and a basil pistou.
The zucchini used in the next course almost overshadowed a famous St Lawrence dish. The Lobster Terrine is a longstanding menu item, but, for this service, sweet farm fresh zucchini accompanied the terrine. Cut into long thin strands and coiled tidily like a nest of noodles, the zucchini was prepared simply with salt, olive oil, and lemon. Coated in the rich lobster bisque spooned on the bottom of the plate, it was a delight.
Another vegetable star was the agretti served with the impressive cod en croute. Poirier was originally going to serve the slice of pastry encrusted fish with Glorious Organics celebration salad. The mix famously contains over a dozen different lettuces, herbs, and greens. However, while on-site at the farm, Poirier changed his mind. Instead, he utilised the Italian green: agretti. Described aptly as the sea asparagus of the land, its salty, briny flavour complemented the cod in its sauce bonne femme well.
St Lawrence Blooms While Firmly Rooted
The Table Champêtre menu will change slightly over the course of August, reflecting what is currently best on the farms. Expect a mix of classic, home-spun Québécois fare, as well as personal favourites from Poirier’s own archives, and recipes from his Where The River Narrows cookbook.
“This menu is all about going back to the roots,” says Poirier. “The roots of our local farmers and the quality of produce they provide, the roots of what makes this restaurant such a special place for all of us, and the roots of Québécois cuisine and culture.”
This Table Champêtre series allows Poirier to not just celebrate the work of local farmers, but to continue what he sees as a constant responsibility: educating guests. “That’s the job of the chef,” he explains, “to educate people in that regard, to try to convince people to choose quality over quantity.” Hopefully, after tasting the Table Champêtre menu, guests will have new appreciation of these farm-fresh summer ingredients.
New Chapters, Seasonal Rhythms
One of the most important elements of a Michelin starred meal is wonder. Instilling a sense of awe is no easy feat, but it is part of what makes these meals so memorable. These touches take time and effort as well as a diligent, synchronized staff.
“What’s on the plate reflects the whole operation,” acknowledges Poirier. “I want to see people grow,” Poirier shares. This explains why he supported a couple of longtime St Lawrence team members when they wanted to strike out alone. Chez Celine is St Lawrence’s little sister and the new baby of alums Margaux Herder and David Lawson. The more casual Chez Celine also offers Poirier somewhere to play outside of the fine dining sandbox.
That said, Poirier’s skills are still best displayed at St Lawrence, and the Table Champêtre menu offers an ephemeral taste of summer that shouldn’t be missed.
