From the brother and sister duo behind Anh and Chi, meet Good Thief: the metaphorical mischievous younger brother, the Robin Hood of recipes, the hottest new bar in Mount Pleasant.
Heritage & History
Vincent Nguyễn and Amelie Thuy Nguyễn are building their Main Street legacy while expanding their footprint with the opening of Good Thief located right beside their MICHELIN recommended Vietnamese restaurant. The Nguyễn siblings have been living, working, and playing in Mount Pleasant their whole lives. They practically grew up at Phở Hoàng, their family’s Vietnamese restaurant that occupied the space now known as Anh and Chi. Amelie and Vincent’s parents opened Phở Hoàng in 1983. Then, in 2016, the Nguyễns lost their father. Both brother and sister decided to drastically pivot their careers and re-invent their family restaurant.
Now the time has come for a new venture. While Anh and Chi offers fresh and modern iterations of their mother’s traditional Vietnamese recipes, Good Thief has more eclectic and global inspirations.
Live in the Nhậu
The primary inspiration comes from the time-honoured Vietnamese practice of “nhậu,” gathering to drink, eat, and converse. Amelie notes that nhậu was traditionally for men but Good Thief is all about breaking rules. In fact, one of the focal art pieces in Good Thief was chosen specifically to make it clear that women have a seat at the table here. A woman in sunglasses rides a scooter, capturing the rebelliousness that Good Thief celebrates.
Good Thief’s website explains the concept succinctly: “‘Nhậu’ can be loosely translated as ‘drinking and eating for fun’, involving friends, family, and even strangers who come together to share spirits and stories.” With nhậu as the primary concept, the culinary team led by Chef Jonathan Lee, take inspiration from the Good Thief name and have built a menu like culinary magpies, stealing a technique from here, and an ingredient from there.
Good Thief’s Clever Cocktails
But, nhậu wouldn’t be nhậu without some drinks. Beverage Director Ben Kingstone finds inspiration in Good Thief’s diverse food menu. Kingstone recently relocated to Vancouver from Toronto where he honed his cocktail-making skills.
The Old Secret, for example, is made with Mẹ’s Chilli Fish Sauce. The flavours are rounded out with toasted sesame oil Michter’s Rye, Good Thief Barrel Aged Amaro, bitter berry glucose, and house bitters. I sampled the surprisingly savoury Phở Đặc Biệt, inspired by the noodle soup. It is the nuanced spice blend of Mẹ’s Pho Seasoning & Herbs that really makes this cocktail surprising. It also contains beef pho Blade & Bow, Junmai Sake, and Rice Noodle Amylase. I also tried the light and bright Pom Pom Punch. A spin on a classic milk punch, this drink uses rice milk. The team has infused Don Julio Reposado with pandan & vanilla, which is paired with Parnubes Oaxacan Rum. It’s a pretty drink that is finished with a sprig of blossoms.
In the kitchen, Chef Lee brings his experience from Blue Water Cafe as well as his flair for organic dish design and plating. His sous chef, Brent Thornton, previously of Is That French, contributes his expertise as they work collaboratively.
Eclectic Eats at Good Thief
Dishes at Good Thief range from interesting, elevated bar snacks, to downright adventurous plates. They have Fanny Bay Sunseekers oysters with coconut chili foam, as well as crave-able triple fried, beef fat fries, à la Heston Blumenthal. They also have an introductory balut for Vancouver diners to try. It is a quail’s egg instead of the traditional chicken. For those who don’t know, a balut is a fertilized developing egg embryo. Good Thief’s isn’t intimidating. It tastes like a conventional boiled egg, although texturally different, with a spicy tamarind sauce, rau răm, and peanuts.
All of the dishes are designed to be shared and enjoyed with friends, family, or lovers while imbibing in drinks. While Anh and Chi serves chicken wings tossed in their signature Mẹ’s fish sauce (the same used in the Old Secret), Good Thief serves crispy frog legs. They are a little more fiddly than chicken wings, but the flavour is fantastic. For summer evenings, there is a refreshing crudo of side stripe prawns. Its beautiful, multi-coloured sauce is served table-side. Other highlights include the crispy zucchini which is a creative, texture forward plate.
An exciting addition to Main Street, Good Thief offers something new while still connecting to the Nguyễn’s roots, the roots not just of Anh and Chi, but also of Phở Hoàng.
