Belli Pizza just opened on Commercial Drive, and they are serving up some seriously delicious Neapolitan meets New York style pizza. I had heard people say that Belli was serving the best pizza in Vancouver and, I must admit, I went in a little skeptical.
I left impressed.
Building Great Pies From the Dough Up
Belli starts with a sourdough pizza dough that is cold fermented for 72 hours. The inclusion of Italian flour in Belli’s signature blend of three flours allows for the dough to stand up to higher temperatures when baking.
Conor Murphy and Chef Scott Thornhill, who both hail from Halifax, are the co-owners of Belli. Their vision was to open a neighbourhood pizzeria, somewhere that felt like a local joint you’d find in New York, Toronto, or Montreal. They didn’t want a grab and go spot, but somewhere regulars want to hang out. Hence Belli’s comfortable booths, nostalgic checkered floor, and cheery disco light.
“In a sentence, Belli is a new-school pizzeria with a heavy hit of nostalgia,” says co-owner Conor Murphy. “We were homesick for that fun, down-to-earth dining experience you get at neighbourhood spots back east, and we wanted to bring that feeling and great pizza to Vancouver.”
Sourdough Obsession
Before launching, Thornhill spent three years perfecting the dough. He confessed that, at one point, he almost gave up entirely. But one day, something clicked. The result of his efforts is a crust with satisfying chew that stands up to hefty toppings like fresh cheese while still being thin.
Baking the pies in two stages at different temperatures creates a crust with just the right balance of chew, crispiness, and char. The crust stands up to the hefty toppings while still being thin, and the airiness of the sourdough dough results in pleasantly bubbly edges. Belli’s pizza is sturdy, yet foldable. Plus, the airy, crisp crust gives a satisfying crack when being folded. It does indeed blend the best of a charred Neapolitan wood-fired pizza with a New York style slice.
Belli’s Bellisimo Menu
When I visited recently, I tried the Spicy Pepperoni Supreme. There is also a Classic Pepperoni for the traditionalists. The spicy Supreme version comes with pepperoni, house-made pickled hot peppers, grass-fed mozzarella, stracciatella cheese, and fresh basil. A gorgeous drizzle of Mike’s hot honey adds a sweetness that lifts this pizza to a whole other level.
The house-made pickled peppers are an example of how hard Chef Thornhill and his team are working to make every element of a fairly simple menu as good as it can be. The same goes for the quality of ingredients used. The different cheeses stand up to being sometimes one of only a handful of ingredients on a pie.
The Importance of Quality Cheese
For example, Belli serves a classic NY Cheese pie, which has red sauce and three cheeses: grass-fed mozzarella, fior di latte, and pecorino. Their Vodka pizza is similarly simple, which means success depends greatly on cheese quality. Vodka sauce is used instead of red sauce. Otherwise, the pie features grass-fed mozzarella and decadent fior di latte cheese. While on the subject of excellent cheese, Belli’s Cacio e Pepe pizza has been a quick fan-favourite. This pizza is made with white sauce and comes topped with grass-fed mozzarella, fior di latte, black pepper (of course), and the most creamy whipped ricotta.
Pairing the Cacio pizza with a spicier red sauce pie made for a satisfying combination. Because I love spice, I was tempted by the Vesuvius. Loaded with bomba diavola, soprasotto, and pepperoni, this one also is topped with the same whipped ricotta as the Cacio e Pepe pie.
Thoughtful Sides and Delicious Dips
Besides serving well-crafted pies, Belli has a couple of classic salads and sides. The Caesar salad isn’t overly creamy or cheesy. It actually has a pleasingly pungent garlic flavour, which is rare and appreciated. Belli’s chicken wings come in a few flavours. I tried and enjoyed the heat of the Gochubber Buffalo. Although, I’ve since heard that the ultimate move is to get the dry Lemon Pepper Caesar wings with Gochubber Buffalo on the side for saucy dipping. The dips work just as well with the wings as they do with the pizzas, especially for dipping the slightly charred sourdough crust.
Another element, besides the ambience, that entices guests to visit in person and linger over a few pies, is Belli’s rotating selection of natural wines, beers, and cocktails. That said, their food will also be available to those who don’t want to leave the house via the delivery apps.
Whether visiting in person or dining via delivery, don’t skip Belli’s dessert. Their hazelnut twist on a tiramisu is reminiscent of a Ferrero Rocher. The lady fingers were beautifully saturated, yet the whole thing tasted surprisingly light. From starters to a sweet final bite, Belli takes care, and you can taste it.
